Cajon del Maipo: Glaciares, Camping, and Hitchhiking Home

Every weekend just keeps getting better and better.

Last Saturday, I went with three other ladies to Cajon del Maipo. While we had a great day exploring and hiking, we didn't quite make it to where we wanted to go; so this weekend was take two, and we were much more prepared. The adventure began on Friday night, when I stayed over with Carli and Liz, so that we could all be up and ready to get ourselves to the metro at 6:30 when it opened, so we could get to the bus station by 7:30 in time to get on the bus going to Banos Morales, our ultimate destination. I get up early here, but that was probably the first time I've been up before the sunrise in quite awhile, and while I was exhausted, it was actually kind of nice.

The campsite is down in that grove of trees somewhere... not to shabby, eh?

We made it on the bus, alright, but since we were the last group to get on (that one... we were relieved we made it, since there's only one bus that goes where we needed to go every day), most of us ended up either sitting on the floor or standing the entire threeish hour bus ride. I ended up sitting for most of it and was able to get in a quick nap on top of our backpacks, which was nice - thanks, guys. By 11:00. though, we had made it, and happily unloaded our backpacks and set up camp in the little campground where we would stay the night.

The entrance to the campsite

The ride there through the mountains and by the river, the views when we stepped foot off the bus, and the view from the campsite were all spectacular, and the best was yet to come. After we set up camp and had a chance to rest and eat some lunch, we set off on an 8km hike to Laguna and Glaciar el Morado. It was about a six hour hike in total, and the valley we were in had just enough of a breeze for it to be pretty steady going, albeit tiring. This was my favorite hike I've done here so far, because pretty much at every moment, the view was incredible.

With the glacial/snow capped mountains in the distance, the flowers and meadows in front of us, and the verdant hills on either side of the valley, it felt like we had stepped right into the Sound of Music. Totally different country/continent, I know, but it really did feel like that, and it was amazing.

THE HILLS ARE ALIVE.... with the sound of gringos

One of the things I loved about this hike was the variation in the ecosystems we passed over the course of the three hour hike to get the glacier. One moment, we were walking through a very dry landscape, like the one pictured above - pretty dusty, lots of rocks, and plants like cactuses and other succulents. The next moment, we were walking along a damp muddy path with lush green meadows surrounding us. The next, we were walking along barren, rocky hills up to the pieces of glacier scattered around the mountain. All through the valley there was always a stream running beside us, water coming down from the melting glacier at the end of the hike.

frolicking so hard in this meadow

las flores!

la laguna y mis dedos de los pies

We took a rest at the lagoon, where we saw a bunch of birds and ate some Toblerone (S/O to Carli), before continuing on to the glacier itself. We got out to the glaciar, rested, touched the ice, watched it melt and run off into a stream, drank some fresh glacier water, and after a while, made our way back to our campsite.

Glaciar El Morado

It was nice to get back and relax, which is what we did for awhile. We made a campfire - it was a process, but it happened eventually - in an attempt to heat up the pasta and sauce we had brought, but we eventually ended up using a travel stove a nearby group of campers lent us (they probably took pity on our fire building attempts). We did, however, get a good enough fire going to roast marshmallows on and caramelize some bananas in tin foil, so all in all I'd consider it a success. 

peaceful morning joys

After dinner, we sat around, played games, and talked while we waited for night to fall and the stars to come out. Having a chance to go deeper with people is interesting, especially when people in this group come from such diverse places and backgrounds, so I like having the chance to learn more about everyone and the experiences they've each had. It'd been a long day, though, so before too long we were all ready to sleep. I ended up sleeping in my hammock in my sleeping bag, and I learned a couple of things. One, it was pretty cold. So I'd probably bring a hat, blanket, and a sweatshirt in the future, but with all those things I think I would have been fine. Another thing, though, was that falling asleep under more stars than I can remember seeing in a long, long time, was pretty amazing. There are very few lights in Cajon del Maipo, so it's easy to see the stars, and the sky really was beautiful. It wasn't the best night of sleep I've ever had, but waking up in the morning to the smell of the outdoors and the campfire, and the quiet in the campsite, and best of all, snuggling up in my hammock for some Jesus time with the sound of the river in the background and the mountains in view through the trees in front of me was a pretty grand way to start the day.

A couple things I'd like to share, regarding that. I've really settled into a good rhythm with my Jesus times here, and I feel like God has been teaching me a lot just about faithfulness and steadiness in his love. I kind of skimmed through my Bible this morning before landing on Psalm 36, and it was a perfect passage for how I've been feeling, and especially how I was feeling this morning when I read it. It says:

"Lord, your constant love reaches the heavens; your faithfulness extends to the skies. Your righteousness is towering like the mountains; your justice is like the depths of the sea. People and animals are in your care. How precious, O God, is your constant love! We find protection under the shadow of your wings. We feast on teh abundant food you provide; you let us drink from teh river of your goodness. You are the sources of all life, and because of your light we see the light. Continue to love those who know you and to do good to those who are righteous. Let not proud people attack me or the wicked make me run away." (Psalm 36:5-11)

How precious is his love, indeed. An especially apt passage, considering today is Valentine's Day! To go along with that, I have two songs which have been hitting me especially hard this weekend that I'd like to share: Holy Holy Holy, by Audrey Assad, and Love Changes Everything, by Red Rocks Worship. Give 'em a listen, if you're so inclined.

Yum

After a lovely peaceful start to the morning, I finally got myself up and set about making the fire with Mackenzie, with decent success. Not one, not two, but three people took pity on us this time (or were annoyed by the smoke billowing from our tiny fire) and offered us wood and use of their stove again, which was really nice of them. We cooked up some eggs and ate a leisurely breakfast around the campfire. Once we finished, we packed up camp, and then split up - Mackenzie and I headed down the road to find our way home, while the rest of the group got ready to go to Banos Morales, hot springs, and then take the bus home later in the afternoon. 

While I felt really confident about the safety of it (it's pretty common here in an area where tons of people are hiking/backpacking/camping without necessarily having access to a car and when buses are sometimes pretty infrequent), I didn't know what to expect from my first time hitchhiking, but it could not have gone better. We walked a little ways down the road and were treated to some more spectacular views, which is a pretty good way to start out any journey.

This view though!

Then, we only walked along the road for maybe five minutes or so before a very nice couple stopped and picked us up. We chatted a little, and I learned that the guy had been born in Maryland, which is a pretty funny connection to have when you're 5,000 miles away from home! They told us that they were heading to Santiago, but were planning on stopping by a river first to swim a little before heading back, and said we could go along with them if we wanted. So, in the spirit of our continued adventuring, we did.

When we got to the place, we hiked up this big hill, and then down the other side of it, and found ourselves at a flat campsite type area, where a bunch of people had set up tents and awnings, and to the side, a beautiful grotto type area with running water, several different pools to swim or wade in, and even a pool that was deep enough for people to jump from ledges several feet above down into the pool. We weren't prepared to swim, but we decided it was definitely a place we wanted to go back to. It was cool being taken there, because it seemed like the type of place that Chileans go to, rather than a very touristy spot, which is something I really liked.

Not the best pic, but the deep pool is in the back there

We left not too long after we got there, and made our way back to Santiago. Before we parted ways, they taught us a new word: apanar (pretend the n has a tilde). It basically means the same as acompanar, which is to come along with, to accompany. It was a great word to learn, and I love that they taught it to us, and what that said about them, and maybe a little bit about Chilean culture, too. They let us crash their Valentine's Day, so picking us up and taking us along was pretty dang nice of them to do.

We made it back in the afternoon, and parted ways at the metro station to go to our respective homes. Walking into the metro station with the other commuters, I realized how dirty I was - covered in dust, sweat, campfire smoke; sunburnt, tired and sore; and a perfect joy settled over me. It was a stellar weekend, and I really couldn't have asked for a better adventure. For the first time, I felt an inkling of falling in love with this country and these people, which, uh-oh. If you know me, you know I have a tendency to fall madly in love with every place I go and all the people there, and it's always awful tearing myself away from them. I have four or five places I've promised myself I'm going to return to and spend the rest of my life at by now. It's a blessing and a curse, I suppose.

Either way, I'm looking forward to more adventures to come. I'm going to try to be better about blogging more to keep up with them all! (Shoutout to Mr. Holl, thanks for reading and commenting :) ) Stay tuned!

TBT: Helado, Valpo, y Más(po)

Hey friends!

{Full disclosure: I began this post two weeks ago, and never finished it. So I have lots to tell from the last two weeks, but that'll just have to come soon in another post! But the time specific phrasing is out of date, and I don't feel like changing it, so just bear in mind it's all actually about two weeks ago. :) }

It's only been a week since I last wrote, but man, there's already a lot to talk about! I'm thinking I'm going to do a whole separate food post, because there's just too much to say, so stay tuned for that.

I'll start with my Friday adventure. Fridays, I finish with classes at 11, and so I decided to take the day to finally do something fun in Santiago. It had come to my awareness that there is an icecream shop in Santiago which is rated one of the top 25 in the world by The Daily Meal - while I'm not sure what that means, exactly, I had my heart set on finding it and getting me some of that icecream. So after finishing our classes, some friends and I made our way over to Emporio La Rosa and got ourselves some icecream. It was definitely delicious, and the flavor selection is supreme. I sampled flavors such as rose, lemon mint basil, and mango passionfruit before deciding on frambuesa mente y chocolate araucano (raspberry mint and bitter chocolate), both of which were supreme. Rest assured, I will be making return trips to Emporio La Rosa.

After icecream, we made our way through a park to Museo Bellas Artes, one of the free public museums in Santiago. The museum currently has an exhibition of art done by Mexican artists, the only one of which I had heard of before (I'm not very educated when it comes to art, I admit) was Diego Rivera, who was the husband of Frida Kahlo. All in all, good people, good art, good icecream, good day!

El Museo Bellas Artes

El interior

"Maternidad" - Diego Rivera

Un barco

Upon getting home from the museum, I immediately packed up my things and headed off with my friend, Ellen, and her host family, toooooo.... Valparaiso! Valpo is a city along the coast of Chile, and is famous for its colorful buildings and murals/graffiti everywhere. We arrived late on Friday night, and then on Saturday, we spent the day exploring. We walked around the city, and made a trip with Ellen's host mom to Viña del Mar, another beautiful seaside town. As we walked around Valpo, we came to one walkway with a slide going down it to the lower platform! There are also ascensores all around the city, which are basically elevators which move down an incline rather than vertically.

Valpo from close to our house!

One mural of many

The Little Prince

Later that day, we walked around some more and went to a palace which had been turned into an art museum. It was a beautiful building, and interesting, but far MORE interesting was our visit to Pablo Neruda's Valpo house, La Sebastiana. It's a beautiful house, and full of interesting artifacts that Neruda collected from all over the world. Neruda, in addition to being an incredible poet and an international liaison for Chile, was a pretty quirky person, and the inside of his house reflected that. We weren't allowed to take pictures inside the house, unfortunately, but the view from the house was incredible - you could look out over the entire city, the port, and the ocean. 

Found a portrait of myself as a child at the art museum #thathaircuttho

 

Valpo at night

 

Mango chocolate cake for breakfast, mmmm

 

View from Neruda's bedroom... can I live here?

 

Empanada of the day: cheese, tomatoes, pineapple, fried dough

 

Mango juice + scenic overlooik

 

This really doesn't do it justice, but we saw the most AMAZING sunset on the drive home

 All in all, it was a fantastic weekend, and it was followed by several more! Stay tuned for more of my extremely belated blog posts, friends. Hope those of you in snowy regions are weathering the storms with few problems!